Friday, June 18, 2010

Anna Sui autumn/winter 2010/11 collection

By Hilary Alexander, Fashion Director at New York Fashion Week Published: 3:52PM GMT 18 Feb 2010

Anna Sui autumn/winter 2010/11 collection - New York Fashion Week Autumnal colour combinations and flapper dresses at Anna Sui Photo: GETTY

"You could call this collection my protest against the computer age," said Anna Sui, backstage before the presentation of her new autumn/winter collection at New York Fashion Week, last night.

"I want to preserve and protect the human touch, keep alive the tradition of things made by hand."

New York Fashion Week: Anna Sui Anna Sui spring/summer 2010 collection New York Fashion Week: Anna Sui Anna Sui autumn/winter 2010/11 collection London Fashion Week; Close encounters of the UNIQUE kind Paris Fashion Week: Alexander McQueen

Sui, the Big Apples "boho queen", based the collection on the American Arts & Crafts Movement, which evolved from the British movement devoted to the same cause of adherence to all things handmade and natural artisanal style.

She was particularly inspired by the "mission oak" furniture developed by the furniture-maker and architect, Gustav Stickley, and the Pewabic Pottery studio and school, established in Detroit, in 1903, still in existence today, and famed for its tiles and iridescent glazes.

The tiles were echoed in exuberant, multicoloured, floral and geometric prints, often patchworked together in a vibrant collage-effect, for signature peasant-smocks and dropped-waist dresses.

Autumnal colour combinations of deep orange, chocolate, cinnamon and bark, in tweed and print, and shiny patent boots, reprised the "mission oak" furniture.

Always an adherent of the tribal cause, Sui accessorised the ensembles with fur "trapper" hats, knitted beanies, and multi-patterned tights, leg-warmers and socks, from her new licensing agreement with the UK-based, Legwear Resource.

Handmade jewellery, by Karen Erickson, was inspired by stained-glass church windows and the Pewabic tiles.

The show also launched Suis first sunglasses and spectacles range, with Mondoticca.

The finale revisited one of the designers favourite references the flapper era. Charleston dresses were in a mix of cream and ivory, in silk, lace and pann velvet, decorated with pearls, sequins and pastel, floral embroidery, and finished with ostrich feather hems.

The British model, Karen Elson, finished the show, dressed as a turn-of-the-last-century, bride.

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